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India's North East

Sikkim 'The Vally of Rice'. But its original inhabitants - the Lepchas understood this land best - for them it was simply 'Nye-mae-el lang - abode of the Gods.

Spread over 7096 sq km, it enfolds the upper valley of the Teesta River, the major tributary of the mighty Brahmaputra River. Its southern borders with West Bengal are shared with the Rangit and Rangpo Rivers; Singhalia Range acts as a natural barrier with Nepal in the west and the Dongkhya Range runs along the borders from the north to the north east. Elevations range from 270 m above sea level in the south to over 8589 m in the north and north-western region.

The land of intense natural beauty, imbued with a mystic aura, is steeped in legends and history. The profusion of lofty peaks, holy lakes, ancient monasteries, orchid nurseries, heli-tours and stunning trekking routes make Sikkim a multidimensional holiday destination.

Gangtok (1572 m), the capital city in the east district, is the seat of governance and the primary hub of commercial activity. The drive up the Teesta gorge to this prettily located first town of Sikkim is spectacular. The pile of white water rafting equipment near the river bank, at one point, reminds you know popular this tumultuous waterway is becoming for adventure sports enthusiasts. Situated a short distance from it is the ancient Rumtek Monastery. The town is convenient base for trips to the enthereal environs of the mystical Tsomgo Lake and Nathu La.

Flower-filled meadows and hot springs, splendid vistas and tribal culture lure travellers to the north district just perfect for cultural tours and tribal village visits.

The stunning environs of the west district are adventure sports country. There's white water rafting down the Teesta and Rangit Rivers and trekking through rhododendron forests amongst the mountainous tracts. The misty, fairytale-like village of Pelling, the great tourist attraction, has sensational views of Mt Kanchendzonga. Close by is the sacred, prayer-flag encircled Khecheopalri (wishing) Lake. Some of the oldest monasteries in Sikkim are located its south district, which is the starting point for treks of Maenam and Tendong Hill. This is mountain biking country and a haven for naturalists. 

GANGTOK: Perched at a height of 5500 ft. Gangtok 'top of hill' lures visitors with its fabulous views of magnificent Mt. Khangchendzonga. Its strategic location, a strong Buddist presence and heady cultural offerings are a tempting insight into this stimulating land. Sample some of its treasures before heading out of town to savour Sikkim's other delights. One of the most delightful ways to do this is to sign up for one of the heli-tours. A good time to be here is around Buddha Purnima (May) to enjoy the famous Saga Dawa festivities. Walking in colorful pro-cession, the holy monks carry the holy books of Buddha's teachings from the Tsuklakhang Monastery in the palace to different parts of town. 

Namgyal Institute of Tibetology: This world renowned centre for Buddhist philosophy and religion, the Namgyal Institute of Tibetology is the world's largest treasury of invaluable old Tibetan books and manuscripts on science, medicine, astrology, etc. It attracts Buddist scholars form around the world.

The centre also has a wide range of Lepcha and Sanskrit manuscripts and scrolls of ancient vintage. The museum attached to it contains over 200 icons, old tankhas and some ritual vessels amongst the various objects d art on display. Upstairs you can observe the cataloguing and restoration of these treasures

Directorate of Handicrafts and Handlooms: You can spend a leisurely time at the Directorate of Handcrafts and Handlooms. You can see craftsmen in the process of weaving, woodcarving and painting typical Sikkimese designs. Handsome souvenirs to take home are hand-woven carpets, blankets, shawls and carved magnolia-wood tables.

Himalayan Zoological Park: Covering an area of 205 hectares, the Himalayan Zoological Park (8 km) is the semi-natural habitat of the endangered red panda, barking deer, spotted deer and bear.

Enchey Monastery: One of the most important monasteries of Sikkim and the Nyingma order of Buddhism, the Enchey Monastery (5 km) is constructed on a site blessed by Lama Druptob Karpo, a revered tantric master reputed for his power to fly. Over 200 years old. Enchey has within its precincts many icons and religious artifacts of great veneration and antiquity.

Khangchndzonga Viewing: Tashi View Point (8 km) is a popular picnic spot offering grandstand views of Khangchendzongs. The Enchey Monastery too has one of the best views of the entire mountain range.

the holdovers

The Holdovers Movie

The Holdovers review - Alexander Payne and Paul Giamatti reunite for charming comedy.

The director makes a welcome return to form with a warm and melancholic 70s-set comedy drama led by a trio of note perfect performances.

As annoyingly cliched as it might be when someone (usually after a deep, dramatic sign) complains that they just dose not make them like they used to, it dose not make any less true. I fact, It is truer than ever fight now, with streamers focused more on smartphone content than movies for cinema screens, When someone actually does make one like  they used to, it is hard not to get a little moony.

So, indebted to his noble nostalgic mission, director and cinema restoration enthusiast Alexander Payne has made a film set in the 70s that could also have been made in the 70s, from the more gimmicky vintage idents at the start right down to the overall aesthetic from camera angles to fades to casting choices to film stock. But The Holdovers, which premiered at this year's Telluride film festival in Colorado before heading to Toronto film festival is far from pastiche; it is a sensitively acted and delicately written comedy drama that has a life all of its own. Not only it does it recall intimate, character led films of the time but also the sorts of 90s and noughties Miramax indies that broke out at Sundance and charmed all those who saw them on their route to the Oscars (it was in fact acquired for distribution by the once-illustrious ex-Weinstein company before production).

It is simplicity is one of its many aces, especially after the uncharacteristically convoluted silliness of Payne's last film, 2017s high-concept, low-reward escapade Downsizing. He is on far less precarious ground here, a film closesr to Nebraska or The Descendants that makes for a welcome return to the fold.

For only the second time in his career, Payne is working from a script he has not written himself. TV writer David Hemingson makes for an idealpartnet, modulating the sweet with the sad without indulging in sentimentality in a way that feels as if Payne did write it. His story of three characters forced to spend Christmas together also has the texture of a great American novel, a world that you imagine existing in full before the start of the film and carrying on without us for a long time after.

Payne's Sideways right hand man, Paul Giamatti, plays Paul a history teacher with a strict moral compass wrangling rich kids at a well-to-do boarding school, aware that he is disliked but unafraid to continue his mission to prioritise fairness over financial sway. He is froced into being a holdover an adult tasked with overseeing students who have nowhere else to to over the Christmas period and is lumped with a smart yet rebellious teen, Angus (newcomer Dominic Sessa). The pair are left alongside a grieving mother and cafeteria manager, Mary (Da 'Vine Joy Randolph), and the three create an unlikely unit.

Paul is a longer focused on his job and very little else, constantly aggrieved by school politics and choosing to soak his concerns in Jim Beam while disappearing in pulpy mystery books. Angus has been abandoned at the very last minute by his mother and her new husband who have demanded a honeymoon over the festive period and he is itching to play up, Mary's son died not long ago after being sent off to fight in Vietnam and she is facing her first Christmas without him, again choosing whiskey but pairing it with reruns of The Newlywed Game.

The ways in which the trio come together apart and back together again are far subtler and less conflict and monologue driven than they could have been in the hands of a less talented writer. There is no makeshift family created here, just three lost people finding commonalities at what fells like the end of the world hunkered down at a snowy New England school as every else enjoys what is allegedly the most wonderful time of the year.

Payne understands that there is a great sadness to the Christmas period for many people and that is felt most poignantly by Mary, a deservedly more substantial role for Randolph, an actor who has been impressing on the outskirts since breaking out in 2019's Dolemite is My Name. She is excellent here given far more to do than what she is usually afforded and gives so much more even during scenes in which she is working with very little. A shot of the tipsily reminiscing at a Christmas party thinking of her son as an Artie Shaw record plays and a brief scene where she unpacks her son's baby belogings are both shattering enough to secure her a best supporting actress nomination come next year.

She is one of three moving parts that move effortlessly together: an A-game Giamatti is convincing as a certain teacher, easily judged from a far but with unseen vulnerabilities close up; and Sessa, a genuine knockout in his first film role confidently going toe-to-toe with his more experienced co-stars, a believably petulant teen in search of something to moor him. There is an emotional restraint in both the performances and the film surrounding them, despite the time of the year and when a light sprinkling of sugar does come in the last act it feels earned. The recent churn of Christmas films, more than ever it seems year by year, has yet to offer us one worth revisiting but there is something about The Holdovers and its misty-eyed melancholy that feels worth adding to the rotation.

The Holdovers is screening at the Toronto film festival  and will be released in the US on 10 Noverber in Australia on 11 January and in the UK on 19 January.

 

 

 

 

 

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Arunachal Pradesh

   Arunachal, one of themost sparsely populated states of India, borders China, Bhutan and Myanmar. There are five major rivers - Kameng, Subansiri, Siang (later the Brahmaputra in Assam), Lohit and Tirap and the mountain ranges follow the river systems. Home to a complex mix of communities, its people are friendly, colourful and simple, its rich flora ranges from the alpine to the subtropical, from rhododendrons to orchids. Its verdant forests, turbulent streams, lofty mountains and snow clad peaks make it a unique place offering the tourist numerous opportunities for rafting, hiking and mountaineering. 

     Arunachal Pradesh finds mention in the literature such as the Kalika Purana and in the epics of Mahabharata and Ramayana. It is believed that the remains of the brick structure, scattered around two villages in the hills north of Roing was the palace of Rukmini, the consort of Lord Krishna. The sixth Dalai Lama was also born on the soil of Arunachal Pradesh.

     

Misty mountains

     Arunachal is huge and travelling around its vast and mountainous tracts can be arduous. But for many this has been a challenge. The tough terrain is a trekker's delight and its amazing range of flora and fauna a naturalist's dream. Itineraries can be customised to enjoy the full range of Arunachal's  glorious assets to one's own needs and the limitations of the Inner Line Permits which can be easily obtained from the Resident Commissioners / Deputy Resident Commissioners at Delhi, Kolkata, Shillong, Guwahati or the Deputy Commissioners of districts.

     Hidden among est its verdant valleys are Arunachal's tribal villages offering a dynamic insight into the fashioning of this land and its people. Discover the intriguing traditions of ancient lifestyles lived out against one of the most diverse ecological settings in the country. Uncover the myths and legends of this land and its people . Marvel at its cultural and religious wealth and antiquity. The stunning combination of its haunting beauty, the treasure house of exotic flora and fauna and its rich tribal heritage make Arunachal a fascinating journey for the discerning traveller.

Dirang Valley

     Arunachal is vast- its terrain difficult. But vacationing in Arunachal Pradesh is an adventure - an exciting, enlightening and incredible adventure - reminding you again what a wonderful privilege it is to savour the delights of wild beauty at its very best.

   

Itanagar

     The land of the dawnlit mountains, Itanagar. Arunachal's capital is also its biggest town. The Jawaharlal Nehru Museum has archaeological finds from Its Fort to which you can trek up. Housed crafts, jewellery, textiles and a variety of tribal headgear, which gives you an insight into Arunachal's tribal culture. Try the local brew Apong, rice beer that's drunk warm. You might stumble upon some of the Nyisi tribals who have around here. You will recognzed them by their massive knot of heir rolled into a bun over their forehead. In their headdress they wear feathers of the great horn bill. Arunachal's signature bird. Shop at the craft emporium for local mementos. Just 6 km away is the picturesque setting of Ganga Lake.

Ganga Lake, Itanagar

     Itanagar doesn't have an airport. However, there are airports at Tezu, Pasighat, Along. Daporijo, Ziro and Lilabari, the nearest. Itanagar is connected by road to the other state capitals in the North East. The convenient rail heads are Harmuty (33 km) and North Lakhimpur (60 km). It is best to visit from October to May.

Tezpur

     The gateway town to the Arunachal hills. Tezpur lies on the banks of Brahmaputra and is well linked to Guwahati airport. Bakulpong (58 km northeast from Tezpur) dotted along the foothills dividing Assam and Arunachal Pradesh is reputed for its hot springs, orchid centre and the Nyethidow festival in March Nearby. Tipi is famed for its orchidarium (7500 varieties of native orchids) and its cuttlower experiments. 

     Stadding the lush environs of Arunachal Pradesh and Assam is the nearby Nameri Sanctuary. Famous for its golden Mahseer - an angler's passion, you can take an elephant ride and find out more about the endangered clouded leopard and white winged wood duck, which have made these forests their home. The Patasali Eco-camp here, run by forest department, can arrange river rafting, fishing expeditions, except during the monsoons. The Orang Wildlife Sanctuary 65 km away replicates Assam's Kaziranga landscape in miniature and amongst its residents are the one-horned rhino, Asiatic buffalo, Hoolock gibbon and the Bengali florican.

Bomdila

     The district headquarters of West Kameng. Bomdila is a delightful stopover amidst apple orchards, lush forests and trakking trails where time seems to stand still. There are a couple of picturesque gompas here and the draft centre has a delightful range of handwoven carpets, woven by the local Monpa tribe. This is also home to the gentle Sherdukpen tribes.

     Nereby, Dibong is famous for its pretty gompas and colourful Kalchakra celebrations. If your visit doesn't fit in with its timing, do visit the yak breeding centreit can be quite enlightening. Enjoy a dip in the enervating waters of the local hot spring in verdant surroundings. Famous for its apples, it has also started kiwi cultivation. In the winter, you'll spy the black-neck crane of Ladakh here. As you climb to the higher reaches of mountain road to Tawang, the forest things out and air becomes increasingly colder. 

Tawang

     With its centuries-old great fortress monastery against the dramatic setting of the snow-mantled peaks. Tawang is a accessible by car in a dramatic drive through mesmeric alpine country. The sinuous road to Tawang passess through the dragon gates on the awesome heights of the great Sela Pass (13,714 ft). Jaswantgarh located here is a memorial to the brave soldier who single-handedly tried to hold of the approaching Chineses from the Pass during the 1962 Indo-Chinese war. The stupa-like Tawang War Memorial also salutes the heroes of the war. There's strong Tibetan presence in Tawang. Prayer-flags flutter in the breeze. Monks in their soft robes slip silently through the square attending their daily chores. There are 500 of them attached to the great monastery on its dramatic perch on the spur, a short distance from the main town. It is supposed to be the biggest monastery after Lhasa's Potala. The current Dalai Lama is said to have passed through the township on his escape from Tibet. The Urgelling Monastery here is also associated with the birth of the 6th Dalai Lama. It features his preserved footprints and fingerprints, which are much revered by Buddhist devotees.

Tawang Monastery

   
The great Tawang Monastery, with its dramatic background is eye-catching. A stunning 8 m high gilded statue of Buddha dominates the sanctum. The great rotating prayer wheels.... priceless tangkhas....... the drone of the monks in prayer....... sputtering butter-lamps are an evocative vision. its assembly hall is massive - rising 3 stories high. Attached to the monastery is a library with priceless manuscripts, scriptures and literature, there's a school hunts for the monks and a great community kitchen. Its museum has rare and beautiful tangkhas and ritual vesseles amongst other important artifacts, including some possessions of the 6th Dalai Lama.

     The craft centre in Tawang sells beautiful masks, hand-woven carpets, tangkhas, jewellery in silver, turquoise, coral and amber, chubas the local dress and delightfully affordable mementos.